FAQs
:: Why choose a wood floor? ::
:: Why go for oak instead of other woods? ::
:: What is the difference between solid oak and laminate? ::
:: What should I pay for my floor? ::
:: Why does the cost of oak vary? ::
:: What can go wrong with a wooden floor? ::
:: What about joining the floor to wall skirting? ::
:: Can I use solid oak over underfloor heating? ::
:: Is there much floor finishing once the oak is down? ::
:: Is real oak flooring a nightmare to keep clean? ::
Why choose a wood floor?
Well you can probably answer this yourself having got this far! But if you need re assuring – wood is back in fashion in a big way and it’s for the following reasons: wood is warm, hygienic, timeless and adaptable. A wooden floor is for life and will add value to your house.
Why go for oak instead of other woods?
There are of course many different timbers to make wooden floors, from Scandinavian soft woods to tropical and exotic hardwoods. We specialise in European oak because we feel it is the best material, as well as being indigenous to this country which is no doubt what makes it look and feel right for our styles of living, and whence gives oak its popularity in our homes.
What is the difference between solid oak and laminate?
All our oak floors are solid natural oak all the way through and will last for generations. A laminate (engineered) floor has at best a thin finish of oak veneer over a sandwich of wood pieces, manufactured to look like an oak board.
At worst the sandwich will merely have a printed image of oak laminated to the surface to make it look like wood. Even the best laminates will not pass the walk on test, making a hollow clacking sound, very different to the satisfaction of having solid oak under your feet.
A solid oak floor will not only last for generations, it will improve with age, which cannot be said for even the best quality of laminate floor. If your floor is likely to get damp or subject to big temperature fluctuations, for example in a basement or conservatory you might do better to forget real wood and go for an engineered and therefore more stable compound product, sorry!
What should I pay for my floor?
Whilst budget is important for most of us remember you generally get what you pay for! Cheap laminate is exactly that and it cannot be expected to keep its look for very long and will need frequent replacement. Expensive laminate will look better for longer but will still need replacing.
Often the best engineered floor is more expensive than solid wood and this reflects the cost of its manufacture and its ability to remain stable in situations where you could not use real wood. Remember you are only going to floor your house once so get it right!
Why does the cost of oak vary?
Many people sell European oak from Eastern Europe but it is essential that the oak has been properly selected, milled, kilned and stored, and preferable that the forests from where it comes are managed sustainably for future generations. We get this assurance by buying our oak from France, whose timber industry is the envy of our own.
What can go wrong with a wooden floor?
Solid oak is a living product and this is what makes it so special. It only has one enemy and that is moisture. If allowed to oak will take up moisture and expand and in the worst case cup (bow upwards). Do not have solid oak fitted if you have a damp sub floor or atmosphere, or in a situation where flooding is likely.
How much oak do I need?
Most oak is sold in quantities of m2 so simply measure your room in metres and multiply the length by the width to get the area in m2. If your room is not square add up the area in square sections as best you can and then total them.
Once you have your overall amount add 6% for wastage in the fitting process if you are using Homewood products. Be warned that if your wood is not end matched (tongue and grooved on all four sides your fitters wastage will be considerably higher.
How do I fix it?
The first way to fix your oak is to secret nail (a Portanailer drives a 2” nail at an angle into the tongue of each board) directly to joists, battens or plywood or chipboard subfloor but not every situation allows this. The second way is to glue directly to a concrete floor. We strongly advise however that you use an epoxy sealant first and our elastic 1 component polyurethane adhesive that comes in the form of a 600cc roll.
Gluing is best with narrower planks and is not advised beyond 150mm wide. Any wide planks (190mm) should be face nailed or screwed and plugged for extra rigidity. A professional fitter will know what to do for most situations and will take advice from your supplier.
What about joining the floor to wall skirting?
A solid oak floor is an organic product and your floor will move and expand as temperature changes, so when it is fitted there should be a 10mm expansion gap left around the floor edge, to be covered with skirting. In a renovation, the old skirting will ideally be removed before being replaced to cover the gap. If you don’t want to remove it you can cover the expansion gap with a decorative bead, called scotia.
Can I use solid oak over underfloor heating?
The answer is yes but it needs to be the right oak and it should be double kilned
to take it down to 6-
Is there much floor finishing once the oak is down?
The answer to this depends on the type of solid oak you have bought. You can buy pre finished boards which are factory finished and coated with a polyurethane finish and these need no further work – however they look plastic by comparison with natural oiled wood, which kind of ruins the effect of going for real wood which you were looking for in the first place!
Also if you damage the surface of pre finished boards by scratching etc. you are in trouble and can only sand down the whole surface which becomes a major repair job. If you buy quality machined boards they will need minimal sanding (a orbital sander is ideal for open knots) and only a little knot filling according to taste and you can then add a wide range of natural looking finishes.
We think the nicest finish comes from using a natural oil finish like Treatex traditional
Hard Wax Oil, which is easy to brush roller on and quick to dry -
Is real oak flooring a nightmare to keep clean?
Absolutely not! In fact it couldn’t be easier to maintain and keep looking warm and beautiful with minimum effort. So much more hygienic than carpets a solid oak floor just needs a sweep or vacuum to pick up loose dirt, or a gentle damp mopping to restore shine (occasionally add a floor care solution for extra cleaning).
When the time comes you can just apply another coat of hard wax oil over your previous finish (no sanding) but your original coats should be good for 2 or 3 years. It’s also a good idea to put soft pads on any furniture to reduce scuffs and scratches. And when that full glass of deep red wine hits the deck, it won’t stain! Just mop it up.
© Copyright Homewood Houses Ltd 2008
